Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Well...the V channel is like | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| Well...the V channel is like a dart in that it's a V shape, but it's a continuous groove around the cushion, so that part is different. It's like a dart in that it gives a curve to a flat plane. You can look for Reenskaug pics online to see if your cushions look like what are described as original, though I'm pretty sure not all descriptions are accurate, of course. But you can get a good composite idea. If your old ones are floppy, there's a good chance that they're latex foam and thus pretty guaranteed to be original. You could go with latex for the new ones but urethane is easier to cut and also latex is pricier. You can always switch later if you want---it is a simple process to replace foam. No need to remake the entire thing or get new fabric. One and an eight yards of fabric sounds about right. Just be sure to have enough to cut generously. It's no fun stressing about cutting nice fabric when you have zero margin for error. | |||||
| 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tchp | General discussion | ||
| Leif, I have never been able to figure out how the non-Selig labelled chairs got to the USA, be they brought here by a private person/military serviceperson who bought them in Europe, or if some other retailer sold them. Although my understanding was that Selig had an exclusive right to sell these designs in the USA. The only thing I have noticed about similarly unmarked chairs that I have come into contact with or have owned is that the beech used is finished with a more natural finish, rather than the dark walnut-like tinted lacquer that Selig offered as an option in their catalog (a finish they called "Saddle"). They have the Made in Denmark impressed mark, and a clear finish that is often very worn and a little bit brown/yellow from age. Are your unmarked chairs beech and done with a dark finish? | |||||
| I can't speak specifically... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | Jobiemed | General discussion | |
| I can't speak specifically... I can't speak specifically about your tulip table, but I had a similiar situation with mine. I purchase one 47" Tulip table (black base, black marble top) in like-new condition from an architect that was moving to NY. Sold it to me for $450 - can you believe that? I'm sure he got a good discount to begin with though. Anyway, it was missing one screw. I emailed KNOLL, and received a prompt response from a rep. She sent me the screw I needed within a week, NO CHARGE. That's class! I asked for an extra KNOLL sticker - yeah that was pushing my luck, they don't do that. Anyway, my suggesstion is to email KNOLL. The last thing you want to do is use the wrong screw and muck-up the threads. Then your really screwed - pardon the pun. Hope this helps. | |||||
| Antonella | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | James Collins | General discussion | |
| Antonella Please don't put quotes around words attributed to me that I did not say. I was the one that brought up the black hole table and I did not use the word "outrageous". Quite the opposite. I do not find Newsons' work at all outrageous. I would be more inclined to call it "silly" or "goofy" (or any one of the seven drawfs for that matter). Outrageous is a good thing. Newson's stuff is a page-fluppers. Let me explain. I'm sitting in the dentist's waiting room flipping through the pile of magazines to kill a little time. I always go for the design mags and my dentist also being gay has plenty of them. If I flip to a page with a Newson piece on it there is nothing that would catch my eye (either in a good or bad way) to cause me to stop and investigate that page. I flip to the next one... his stuff just isn't really that interesting hon. | |||||
| I second tktoo's HAPPY | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Eameshead | Off topic | |
| I second tktoo's HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you SDR! tktoo, your Halloween memories sent me back to my own childhood. I had two older sisters so I also experienced plenty of the vibe you are talking about, but from the perspective of the little brother. For me, it was Brownies events, Girl Scouts, Beatles etc. You want screaming teenage girls? I went with my dad and sisters to the first Beatles concert in San Francisco at the Cow Palace in the mid-60s…. 59 minute concert. One solid scream. I didn't see a thing. Nothing but a forrest of girls standing on chairs and crying and screaming. Where do you get all those awesome vintage coats Mark? Do you bribe your lady friends at your local thrift shop to make sure they funnel all the good coats your way? | |||||
| Thanks Leif! Just found it | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | Zephyr | General discussion | |
| Thanks Leif! Just found it as I got your response, plugging in various consonants in front of 'Hansen." I agree, it would be much better with legs. I thought about what it would take to build a stand for it, as I have some teak laying around, but not sure it is worth it. It is pretty tall already, and legs would kind of throw off the proportions of the thing. Also, I am buried in home projects, and furniture refinishing projects. Guess if it is still there at 4, I will have to make a split decision... Also good the hear on the Volther chairs. They are quality materials, and pretty descent construction ... but I will probably eventually sell them and see if I can find a reasonable priced lone Model 77, so at least I have an even 6 dining chairs. Of course, if I can find 2 Model 57s too, then I would have a set of 6, plus the 2 head-of-the-table chairs ... perfect. | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| . pubpat isn't often right, and he's wrong again. Do NOT sand. If the dirt or mold is that far ingrained then any sanding to reach it will just go through to the next layer of veneer equalling one ruined chair. First try scrubbing (toothbrush, nail brush that kind of thing) with white spirit (naphtha) to avoid raising the grain and allow to dry completely. If no joy you may need to remove the existing finish, whatever it is, and then repeat the scrubbing with naphtha. Afterwards bleach if necessary but remember this will raise the grain and you will also need to match the back rest as the seat will be paler. I would be more inclined to use oxalic acid than household bleach. Allow to dry and refinish. Before applying a finish it is OK to very lightly sand (400 grit max) but this will be simply to smooth any raised grain. | |||||
| Oak is particularly | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| Oak is particularly problematic in that it has open-grained early wood that really soaks up and hangs onto pigments. To make things worse, many pigments added to stains and various other products are unaffected by oxalic acid or even bleach treatments. If you've already gone over the whole thing with mineral spirits without satisfactory results, I guess I'd recommend ramping it up a notch to lacquer thinner or even acetone. Saturate an area, scrub a bit with a Scotchbright pad, and blot up as much of the mess as you can before it evaporates with good paper towels or cotton rags. You may have to do areas more than once. If neither of those help, the last-resort option is methylene chloride stripper and toothbrushes and even that may not pull it all out of the pores. Nasty and potentially hazardous work, for sure, so please take precautions. FWIW, I feel your pain. | |||||
| Hi Chris, | 1 Relevance | 20 years ago | koen | General discussion | |
| Hi Chris, Please do not apologize...or if you prefer: apologies accepted. Of course I like to support my opinion, but in challenging that opinion you forced me not to rely just on my visual memory but to look up a number of documents that were gathering dust....which is a pleasant thing to do on a sunday night. In doing so I did find a number of things supporting my previous arguments and also some supporting yours. So at the end of the day I knew more that in the beginning, which is my standard for a "good" day. What makes it interesting is of course that Steven is right in assuming that this is a hand drawn mixture of quite a number of influences (in 1949, all of this was of course "retro").To try to idendify them made dcwilson's original question so interesting. Arguments bring a lot of energy to thought as long as opinion is not the start but the result. | |||||
| "If you Google this issue,... | 1 Relevance | 14 years ago | Joshua F (USA) | General discussion | |
| "If you Google this issue,... "If you Google this issue, you will find that oxalic acid is the most common thing used to remove dark ring stains on wood furniture. I know that nicer woodworking and hardware stores here in the USA carry it. There is a kitchen cleanser here in the USA called "Barkeeper's Friend", which contains some oxalic acid. When I have got a dark ring stain on my teak dining table or my walnut cutting board, I make a paste from the cleanser, and put it on the stain, and so far I have not encountered one that did not disappear completely, and some have been pretty dark. So far I have not seen it negatively effect the natural color of the wood itself." Thanks ! I will try this. Appreciate the feedback. | |||||
| RE: Brouer Møblefabrik Cabinet - skeleton key help | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | Herringbone | Repair | |
| This is a photo of a Brouer piece with a key you find on the internet. Should give you an idea about the style. If you need the measurements to just open the thing, it is probably easier to pick the lock (you’ll find videos on how to do it), remove it and hand it to a locksmith. Attachment: 4147C5A6-3D11-482D-8A13-58A01ED0A398.jpeg | |||||
| I wouldn't worry about a... | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | norm | General discussion | |
| I wouldn't worry about a... I wouldn't worry about a little bit of surface rust if they were mine. I have a set that has been in the house here for close to 50 years, no broken welds wires or other issues. If you will be using them inside just clean them up a little,(scotch brite or somthing similar) and enjoy them. Rust is not a cancer, it will not continue to grow and eat through your chairs. Rust needs moisture and oxygen...take away the moisture, no further rust. Ever see an old car sitting outside in the desert with a little bit of surface rust on it? That same little bit of surface will still be there in 100 years...no moisture. I too prefer original but to each there own I guess...some people want things to look new so they repaint and "restore". If they were covered in surface rust with little to no original paint remaining I suppose I would do the same thing. | |||||
| 27-Jun-07 phyllis lamber... | 1 Relevance | 19 years ago | LRF | General discussion | |
| 27-Jun-07 phyllis lamber... 27-Jun-07 phyllis lambert is a true legend in the field .. she grew up privilaged but choice to do something that she really loved and enjoyed and chice to better the field of Architecture I have read for years about what she started with the CCA. I have known people in NYC over the last 25 years who have been close friends with her and her brothers . Even the old man Sam commmisioned Mies to build the Segrams building he did so with the stipulation that Phyllis get hands on experience. not only from Mies but from the contractors on every aspect of building the building that bears the company name . The sad thing is she did such a good job on that building she should have continued building great post modern buildings after Mies passed away... she and Florance Knoll were perhaps the two woman who knew Mies better than anyone and how he thought and designed , . | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | HPau | General discussion | |
| . I draw a lot, on bills, envelopes, a4, anything at hand. The best instruments are good quality pencils and fine nib drafting pens which you now where they are. I don't think the variabilty in strokes you can make is as important as the mechanical reliability of the pen/pencil, does it break often when you sharpen it? How quickly does it dry out if you leave the lid off? Big carpenters pencils aren't bad and a good mechanical pencil is great for woodwork. Most often a quick drawing for a design will not need to be of presentation quality, it just needs to act as a later reminder of whats possible, I think I'd find the pluck shaped thing almost useless for what I do, drawing I make are often annotated and changing instruments halfway through a quick sketch breaks the flow. | |||||
| four Plycrafts here | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| four Plycrafts here I've reupholstered four Plycraft chair sets here (sold one, kept one, gave two to my grown kids). I used to long for the real thing but heard from several people that they find the Plycrafts to be more comfortable. I like how they tilt and the Eames chair doesn't tilt, so I've decided to stick with my Plycraft and put my money into things that matter more. They do look really good when redone in a good quality cowhide. Makes a huge difference. I also upgraded the armrests on the one that I kept. Usually the leather is just wrapped around to the underside and stapled but I redid them with boxed welted covers like on the Eames chairs. It just gives them more of a quality look. The wrapped leather looks cheap to me. | |||||
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