Search result for: the-last-thing-you-aquired-
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| I disagree with woody... | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | difeliciantonio | General discussion | |
| I disagree with woody... I disagree with woody here. The shell itself is crap and depending on when it was made it will either have 3 holes drilled into or have a non- shock mount style to mount the base Since its upholstered The big thing is see that is worth it is that base. It looks like a great aluminum Group base that is worth more than the 80$. If it had been an h-base I would have said no Get the chair and either strip it of the vinyl or buy just a bare fiberglass shell. A black bare fiberglass shell with that same base went for 699$ on eBay. I can't help to think that that base added some $$ to it. For 80$ I would buy it | |||||
| Quite nice, Olive. | 1 Relevance | 21 years ago | dcwilson | General discussion | |
| Quite nice, Olive. Did you pay full retail? Even if you did, its probably less than a year of marriage counseling (what I estimated would be required to solve our similar problem) and certainly a bargain compared to divorce. 🙂 I too have this problem of reading late when my wife slumbers. I tried a halfway solution--a Petzl Teka LED light that straps on the head, but she quickly nixed that. I am now banished to another bedroom to read. 🙁 But I am relentless. I wait just till she is asleep, scamper back in and use the Petzl as she snoozes. It is the only environmentally responsible thing to do. It would be wasteful to let all her undercover warmth--what we call BFG, or bed feel good--go unshared. I would have to use an electric blanket if not. Fortunately she's a heavy sleeper once she's under. 🙂 | |||||
| continued | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| continued OPTION #4: ========== If you're going to pay 40+ cents per CD, you should be getting something a lot better than what those binder sheets offer. At a minimum, you should get what your jewel cases are already giving you now: 1. Safe, archival storage. 2. Storage of your CD, its liner notes, its tray-card (and obi strip if you're into that), plus a second CD if it's a double album, all in one place. 3. Cover artwork and tray card both visible. Spine portion of the tray card readable without pulling the whole thing off the shelf. 4. Choice of storing on a shelf and reading spines, or storing in trays/boxes/drawers and reading covers. 5. Easy rearrangement, addition, and removal. And then you should also get: 6. Dense storage, denser than slim cases. And it turns out that there's a product that gives you all that. It's the "CD Pro" sleeve from MM Design. It isn't designed to go into a binder; it sits loose on a shelf or in a tray or a case, like an extra-thin slim case, but with room for two CDs and with the tray-card visible on the back (the spine portion isn't on the spine of the sleeve, but it's right next to it, so it's easy to read -- as demonstrated in the blurry third photo). MM Designs also sells trays, cases, travel pouches, alphabetical dividers, labels, etc. I haven't put my collection in these sleeves yet because metal racks are cheaper and I still have room... But when I finally do run out of room, my CDs are all going into these sleeves. That is, unless I can lose my irrational attachment to them and do the RIGHT thing, described below. 50 cents per CD (but I've got a friend with a thousand or so extra sleeves that he'd probably sell for less). OPTION #5: ========== Do what I can't bring myself to do: Now that all your music is stored in some lossless format on a hard drive somewhere, sell your CDs. Keep the ones that are REALLY important to you or that impress your music-snob frenemies, but get rid of the 80-90% that you never listen to, that you bought only for one song, or that just have cover artwork with no liner notes. If you ever change your mind about a CD that you've sold, you can always buy it again; used CDs are cheap, and with your profits from the sale plus all the money you DIDN'T spend on sleeves or binders, you'll still end up way ahead and have plenty of shelf space to boot. http://www.mmdesign.com/products/cd-pro-poly-sleeve.php | |||||
| Religion, traditions and culture | 1 Relevance | 23 years ago | fm | General discussion | |
| Religion, traditions and culture Religion plays a great role in Middle East. Mosques are built every where, a lot of building and interiors are designed according to the Islamic style using ornaments and Arabic calligraphy. But in addition to religion, tradition and culture plays an important role, especially in modern design. For example buildings are built with small windows because people like to keep the privacy of their home, even the cars windows are all tinted ?dark?. Unlike in Europe and the states the interiors of the houses is something so private and not for everyone to see, and this is applied to almost every thing even the way they dress. | |||||
| Mark, so glad | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | Riki | General discussion | |
| Mark, so glad you're back--it was simply desolate without your timely snaps. And, please, don't be ashamed of being in the one percent. It's not always a bad thing--sometimes we still have our shining moments. Case in point, we had a little barbecue this weekend at our chalet in the French Alps for 30 nearest and dearest to celebrate the day the French beheaded Marie Antoinette. As one does. Anyway, a rather large American ex-pat sat in one of my Steen Ostergaard Cado chairs and promptly broke its' cantilevered loveliness into two pieces. His embarrassed wife tried to PAY ME right then and there for the chair that her husband's fat ass broke and I, being the elitist that I am, said ever so graciously, "Of course not, darling. Wouldn't hear of it. It was just an old, plastic patio chair. No worries!" You see? We all have our place and yours is here. Welcome back. | |||||
| Alternatively: If you can ... | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| Alternatively: If you can ... Alternatively: If you can find anything that fits the nut with the weird threads, be it threaded rod, a screw, etc, then: -get threaded rod of the right diameter and a coupling (metal tube with threads inside) -get JB Weld -stick some JB Weld on threads of the threaded rod screw it into the coupling halfway -insert the weird threaded thing you've found into the other end of the coupling with a bunch of JB Weld. | |||||
| Not a fan... | 1 Relevance | 17 years ago | koen | General discussion | |
| Not a fan... It might come as a surprise to some but I am not a big Jean Prouvé fan. Most of the time his constructions are over dimensioned, the choice of materials is not always as rational as he used to pretend and the detailing is often that of an amateur welder the day after a good party. This being said I am always amazed by the influence Jean Prouvé had. This chair is a good case in point. Between this chair and the Friso Kramer or Wim Rietveld chairs there is only a small step. The interesting thing is that the difference is often: better choice of material, better dimensioned and a more consistent choice of materials and technology. Not being a fan of Jean Prouvé does not exclude me from recognizing an unusual talent. | |||||
| PH5 spare parts | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | jj_100 | General discussion | |
| I have been desperately seeking a set of metal (purple) struts for an old PH5 lamp. I have contacted Poulsen et al. to no avail. The most frustrating thing is that Poulsen claims to sell spare parts on their website: http://www.louispoulsen.com/en-us/Product/Pendants/PH%205.aspx?Productofferings= I need the "struts and legs." Good luck trying to get those in the US, apparently. I contacted several of their dealers here and Poulsen directly. Does anyone have any idea where I might find a set of these? While I'm at it, I have seen hints of an assembly guide for a PH5 lamp on ebay, but it doesn't seem to be out there anymore. If anyone happens to have that (or experience putting a PH5 back together), please let me know. I attempted to put mine back together (even with some missing struts) and it was quite a challenge. Thanks for any info! Jim | |||||
| There are Danish makers who | 1 Relevance | 10 years ago | leif ericson - Zephyr Renner | General discussion | |
| There are Danish makers who did not put Denmark or "made in Denmark" on their pieces. I believe the prevalence of those markings is mostly because of export/import requirements. And it was a point of status. You mostly see pieces without mention of Denmark from companies that were selling to the domestic Danish market. And I share your skepticism that the mark is Seffle. It would leave the "I" unexplained. One thing that would help is a easy to find visual reference of pieces with that mark. To that end here is the coffee table: | |||||
| Attaching images from Flickr. | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| Attaching images from Flickr. Images cannot be uploaded directly to Design Addict. To attach an image to a post, you must first upload it to a photo-sharing site and then tell Design Addict where to find it. There are dozens of free photo-sharing sites. I happen to like Flickr: 1. Sign up for a free account at flickr.com. Upload your photos there; they'll show up in what Flickr calls your "photostream" (the catalog of all the photos you've uploaded). Click on the photo you want to post; it'll open on its own page. 2. Click "Actions". Select "View all Sizes". 3. Click "Medium 500" to see your photo resized to 500 pixels wide (photos wider than 500 pixels won't fit on Design Addict without scrolling). 4. Right-click on the photo and choose "Copy image location" (Firefox) or "Copy image URL" (Chrome) to copy the URL of the image. If you're using Internet Explorer 8, you have to do this retarded thing: a. Right-click on the image. b. Select "Properties". c. In the dialog box that appears, find the URL (it begins "http" and ends ".jpg"). Select the whole thing and copy it by hitting Ctrl-C. I don't have a Mac anymore, so I can't give instructions for Safari. 5. On the DA "Create a New Thread" or "Edit your post" page, click in one of the three "associated web images" boxes and paste the URL that you copied in step 4. If you did everything right, the URL will be something like: Note that it begins "http" and ends ".jpg". If you erroneously copied the URL of the entire Flickr page instead of the image URL, it'll look like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12345678@X90/1234567890/sizes/m/in/photostream/ That's wrong. Go back to the Flickr page and carefully retry the instructions in steps 3 and 4. 6. Some people's browsers are configured to automatically load the secure version of a page when possible. If you're one of those people, the URL you pasted will begin "https:" rather than "http". That won't work on DA, so manually delete the "s". 7. That's all there is to it. To see exactly how I did it for this post, click the "Edit" link below, under "posted by fastfwd". You can't actually edit the post without my password, but you'll be able to see what I pasted into the image box. | |||||
| I wouldn't buy something... | 1 Relevance | 18 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| I wouldn't buy something... I wouldn't buy something like that online. The feel of a sofa is really critical, I think, and the only way to judge that is to sit on it. As far as scale, lay newspapers out on the floor to the sectional's dimensions. They really do take up a lot of room and are hard to work into most layouts. I had one all set to put into our family room long before the room was finished. The sectional turned out to be too big and I ended up giving it to our oldest kid for her boom boom room. At least I still get to visit it. I do kinda regret the whole thing, though. As far as quality, you should ask about the type of frame, the type and density of the foam, the type of springs, fiber content and wear rating of the fabric, etc. Good luck getting accurate, honest answers. | |||||
| 1970 Eames Chair repair question | 1 Relevance | 1 year ago | Sturfry | Repair | |
| I was gifted two 1970 Eames chairs in not great shape. A large in-law broke the back off when he sat down in it. I can't afford to restore them now but would like to use until I can. I'd appreciate any thoughts on whether this chair back could be glued and, if so, what kind of glue. The shock mounts are glued solid, so I'd be gluing the separated plywood layers together. I know it won't be perfect, but if it would support a 160 pound person sitting in it that would be great. You'll see that on one side the remaining plywood is very thin. I've included 2 photos of each side, one with the shear pulled open and one with a temp clamp. The fit it pretty good on both. Thanks for any thoughts. If it can be glued, I bought some PC-7 epoxy, but I'm not sure that's the best thing to use. | |||||
| You seem to be missing the... | 1 Relevance | 13 years ago | Solange | General discussion | |
| You seem to be missing the... You seem to be missing the obvious onegroovy, this forum is to discuss things related to modern and post modern design. That is not to say that many of us do not have broader minds and interests outside of this, but that is for other forums, although occasionally things here can and do veer off topic. I feel as though many here have extended a very cordial and patient hand to you, so there is no need to "rub" anything in anyone's face as you seem to be directing toward EH... there is never a winner in a debate about art anyway. I say this in the best possible spirit of things: your personality is coming across like cheap cologne...entirely without nuance. Your manic bravado is revealing more than perhaps you're realizing. Enthusiasm is a wonderful thing... everyone brings something to the table, but graciousness is appreciated too. Maybe cool your jets a little and get to selling off some of your massive hoarding problem... I mean inventory 🙂 | |||||
| Yes, I went | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Yes, I went through a phase of biscuiting miters, and decided I got better results by eliminating them. Biscuits that fit well do need clamp pressure, while unsplined miters in MDF or plywood are adequately strong when well glued. I haven't clamped a miter in a long time; adhesive tape is the answer. Once you try it you won't go back ! The cabinet is a vanity; I decided a bath cabinet would be a good place for a "ventilated" box, so I got to try one of my architectural fabrics. The planks of maple were straight from the wood store -- S4S 1x4 which I ripped down to 3 1/4" and replaned (no jointer in my present shop). No miters here ! The blue thing is a protected stainless sink. Tomorrow the plumber will hook it up, and I'll take more photos. | |||||
| I guess it's *possible* that | 1 Relevance | 9 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| I guess it's *possible* that the rosewood backing or counter veneer was cracked when the panel was originally laminated, but the location makes me suspicious as this is pretty much exactly where these panels fail when a shock mount goes. Hard to see in your pics, but the proper right replaced mount appears kinda sloppy. Adhesive does look like it could be PC-7, though, and, if so, that's a good thing. I'd question that forward mounts fail more often than the rears. In normal use, stress should be same on both unless somebody liked to sit on or pick it up by the arms. Otherwise, it's a great-looking set. Seat cushion appears good, if a tad plump, from what I can see. I might try to negotiate price based on repairs and evidence of possible structural issues. Don't wait on new mounts if you do buy it. | |||||
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