Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Dear Guy in SF | 1 Relevance | 21 years ago | koen | General discussion | |
| ... (stereo lithography) 14" in diameter by 5" high would cost you well over $US1.200,00. Imagine a shell for a chair... If you are handy, the thing to do is to make most of it yourself. In the case of the chair you could build the shape in layers of MDF (put a fine 3M dust mask on)and finish it untill you are satisfied. You can actually sit in it to test comfort (do not rely on the judgement of 10 people of the same size and shape...) Make it at least 3 inches thick. When finished go and see a workshop that does vacuum forming (commercial signs, displays etc. ... | |||||
| I've always | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| I've always thought that was just a marvelous design. Anybody actually sat on one? If the tubes are rigid rather than resilient, I expect it might not be comfortable for too long. There's a lot of engineering to do to make sure the rubber ball-tipped (?) clips really work; and the tubes have an inner lip at the edge, as you can see, so they are really not just cut-of sections of (custom-diameter) tubing. . . | |||||
| The tubing | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| The tubing used in the Wassily Chair (and I haven't measured it) seems to be the smaller in diameter than that used in the cantilever and other later steel-tube designs -- is that correct? Surely it is slimmer that that used in the main parts of modern bicycle frames. . . | |||||
| So, I | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| So, I finally noticed that Jakey stated, in his initial post, that he wanted to make a SCALE replica of the piece. This is an interesting proposition. (Has Vitra beaten him to it?) I imagine the prospects of finding four diameters of tubing -- of ANY material, at ANY scale -- that are correctly sized to each other, would be slim. Better to create the "tubes" out of paper, wrapping and gluing --with spray glue? -- continuous strips of the right width, around discs of the desired diameter, until an appropriate thickness is achieved, after which the discs can ... | |||||
| Right | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Right Lrt's see. . .if you're on casters, that means the bottom carries the sides, so the bottom needs to be maybe 3/4" MDF, full diameter in size, rabbeted to accept the tube. The top ring same -- the rabbet easily routed and providing a good glue joint to the tube. The loose top as you say. Concrete-form Sonotube has a waxy release coat, but where it's cut would give adequate glue surface to your MDF. Outwater and others carry raw fiberboard cylinders in varying diameters. The groove if present could be filled -- do you want the puffy look of padded s ... | |||||
| Once | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Once upon a time (c 1970?) at Design Research in Cambridge, MA, I inspected a set of eating utensils the handles of which were simple cylinders, perhaps 5/16' in diameter and 5' long, connected to "the business end" by a smaller-diameter rod, all in satin stainless. I liked the way they looked, but the real revelation was the balance and feel of them --like handling some perfect surgical tool. I've never forgotten that experience -- wish I could say who designed and made them. | |||||
| more details | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | floho | General discussion | |
| ... structure, and two cantilevered arms that end in halogen fixtures. The base starts with a flat circular bottom (3/16" thick x 11" diameter). Centered on top of this is a cylinder (4" high x 6 1/2" diameter) that has been "beveled" with two cuts, so that that its top forms a peak. These lowest point of these cuts is at 2 1/2" on the sides of the cylinder. An 80" power cord comes out of the junction between the flat bottom and this cylinder. The final component of the base is a cylinder (1 1/2" diameter), which is centered on the larger beveled cylinder b ... | |||||
| yes | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | deacon | General discussion | |
| yes yeah, i can only afford a 20" diameter 20" high side table. as for the top, the white laminate top chip too easily. and i want the table to be very heavy. even i like the laminate look, i went for the marble. | |||||
| The bargain price of.... | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | AC04 | General discussion | |
| The bargain price of.... The bargain price of £50.00!!! for a 4ft diameter rosewood veneered dining table with polished tulip base. Of course it was a complete fluke, I have been told by a dealer that I buy from that it would retail for around ten times the price. I tired to get hold of an Arkana side table, at the time there were not many to be found and I ended up with the Knoll version bacause I am too impatient. When it came to the coffee table £450 for the Knoll version or £120 for an Arkana shipped from the Netherlands kind of swung it for me! | |||||
| this may be a bit of a... | 1 Relevance | 23 years ago | sleeper. | General discussion | |
| this may be a bit of a... this may be a bit of a cheapo solution i know, but what i did with mine is that i wedged .25" diameter black rubber hose pieces in the back between the leather and the steel. you can't see the rubber hose, but it makes the leather tight. i bought my wassily's used for a very low price. they seem to be from the 70's (not capped, but maybe not knoll). in any case...i'm on a budget, can't afford to replace any parts of the chair...and found this to work very well. i simply bought the rubber hose at lowes (an american hardware store) by ... | |||||
| RE: Cleaning & Refinishing Moller 75 chairs | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | Spanky | Repair | |
| There's one vendor online--Frank's Cane & Rush Supply---who offers 1/8", 7/64", 7/32", etc., which is kind of confusing. Just get 1/8". I think some other vendors might not even mention the diameter, but it will be 1/8". There's also a 1/4" diameter paper cord but hardly anyone sells that and it's only used on a few designs. The vast majority use 1/8", including Møllers. | |||||
| I am amazed | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | koen | General discussion | |
| ... gladly help, but you have to be more specific. In your question you are asking about at least half a dozen completely different processes, of which every one has quite a number of variations applying to hundreds of different metals and alloys. Just on how to forge a kitchen knife I could write you a book...and another one on the relationship between the amount of chrome and nickel in stainless steel cooking pots and the proportion between diameter and hight that you can draw to form them. So please be more specific. Rolling a garbage can out of pre-polished ... | |||||
| Cost/Quality | 1 Relevance | 22 years ago | salamander | General discussion | |
| ... I am in a similar quandry as GanS in the original post of this thread. I would like to buy a chair as true to the original design as possible, but not necessarily at any cost, and would like to be able to make an informed decision knowing what the actual differences are between the chairs offered at different prices. The starting point in Britain would appear to buy Vitra. A shop I have visited could order one for £2800/2900, depending on finish.This is in line with a price found on the Internet. At a lower price I have found aa Italian made chair in a furn ... | |||||
| RE: Aluminum group soft pad lounge chair tilt base re-attachment | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | tktoo2 | Repair | |
| ... That said, there should be either a bronze or plastic bushing in the hub to prevent excessive wobble. These are replaceable "wear" parts, but sometimes require a press to properly insert a new one. The old one can be knocked out using a hammer and a wooden dowel or section of pipe of the proper diameter. The groove around the stub end of the shaft is indeed meant to accept a retaining ring to keep the base attached to the chair. Does it extend just beyond the depth of the hole? I mean just far enough to get a ring on it with maybe a larger diameter washer u ... | |||||
| RE: Molded Plastic Repair | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | tktoo2 | Repair | |
| Ever wonder why caps on glue bottles are almost always made from polypropylene or HDPE? I suppose that some sort of structural repair is *possible* either by plastic welding or use of adhesives and laying on a supporting matrix like fiberglass cloth but, either way, you'd need to first ID the specific polymer and compatible glue. Whatever you do won't be pretty. I'd consider it a goner. If you want to keep the crack from lengthening farther, drill a 2 or 3mm diameter hole at its terminus. | |||||
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