Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Hmm... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| Hmm... Speedserts don't need a hole much larger than their inner diameter, since they form their outer threads by just pushing material out of the way (they only work in soft materials). My thought was that since the table's always wobbled, the holes are already deformed and slightly oversize -- probably enough to let the Speedsert be inserted, after which it'd just screw in. If the holes aren't quite big enough, they could be enlarged by drilling, which would be much easier than drilling for a Helicoil or Timesert, since a) the hole wouldn't have to be as ... | |||||
| Thanks. | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Thanks. I guess if the present threads in the aluminum are badly enough deformed or (more likely) eroded, the Speedserts could be epoxied in ? In any event, it's clear the new female threaded opening will be of a smaller diameter than the male threaded post in the leg -- so those will have to be replaced as well, with a smaller-diameter one. This in turn will require something by way of a filler in the top of the leg -- new wood, or epoxy paste, etc. Sounds like quite a task. | |||||
| Table | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Table The tubing diameter does not look the same either. Does it have "shock mounts"? | |||||
| What is the | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| What is the diameter of the leg, at the top ? What is the shape of the leg, from top to bottom ? Is the steel bolt in the leg sound ? Are the threads ok ? One solution would be a new threaded plate, of aluminum or steel, epoxied to the present plate, and a corresponding amount of wood removed from the bottom of the leg. Then, the shortened leg would screw into the new plate and part-way into the present threaded hole. 1/4" or 3/8" of steel with a new tapped hole would make a nice repair, minimally visible from the normal viewing angle. | |||||
| Picked this 50's acrylic... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | J.J. (FIN) | General discussion | |
| Picked this 50's acrylic... Picked this 50's acrylic clock up a few weeks ago for 2 euro; I have no idea who made it - but I seem to recall seeing a pic of acrylic clock designed by Yki Nummi, but can't find it now..the diameter is around 15", the old school battery movement is by Junghans - two brass blocks are missing but will have them made soon.. | |||||
| My system came with brass... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | jesgord | General discussion | |
| ... the cabinet so the lip of the mounting harware on the back of the cabinet is over the two rods. I hope this makes sense. I was short a few brass rods so went to the hardware store and had the same length rods cut from longer stainless steel rods that they had in stock. It is important that the rods are the correct diameter, or they will shift in the wall brackets causing the cabinet to sag or hang wrong. Lastly, it is much easier to hang these cabinets with two people.....it is tough for one person to line up the pins and brackets on the back of the cab ... | |||||
| To SDC | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Ernst | General discussion | |
| To SDC Thank you SDC, I'm not using the dimensions above. I have found batten thickness versions to be 25mm X 25mm, 26mm X 26mm, 29 mm X 29mm and 30mm X 30mm. I went with the 30mm (1.181") square. Also, a friend of mine made a chair using 25mm squares, but the chair felt a bit meek and flexed a bit more than I would like when I sat in it (I'm 72Kgs.) The wood she used is maple. If you do go with the thinner square sections, then I would recommend quarter sawn wood and positioning the growth rings for optimum rigidity. The precise location of the dowel h ... | |||||
| Well I forgot to mention that... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Caco | General discussion | |
| ... glass walls etc (not an Eichler) but the house was about to fall down (circa 1951). Very deteriorated. The lamp was very dirty I have two Nelson lamps. Smaller, and the cover, fabric or plastic what ever is called is much thinner that the one pictured here. I kind of like that since it's much harder to poke a hole through--Not that you would do that but it happens. I though about it having a ring too but it's hard to tell because the bottom looks different than the top (where the plastic meets the metal) Also, the diameter of the top hole is different from ... | |||||
| also just bought this beast. | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Lit Up | General discussion | |
| also just bought this beast. seriously large clock. 60cm diameter | |||||
| Maybe | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Robert Leach | General discussion | |
| Maybe remove the foot and try inserting a wooden dowel of a slightly smaller diameter a little at a time.. hammering it home as it reaches the bend. | |||||
| I've never seen Platner... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| I've never seen Platner... I've never seen Platner fakes, but I HAVE seen real Platner bases married to non-original tops: stools made into side tables and vice-versa, a dining-table top on a coffee-table base, etc. Is it possible that your ottoman was built from a table base? Or that the ones on 1stdibs were? I have no idea what the dimensions of the ottoman should be, but current-production coffee tables are about 15" high, with a base diameter of 18.5". | |||||
| Bamboo | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Olive | General discussion | |
| Bamboo A 10ft high 4ft diameter pot of winter hardy, very healthy Fargesia Robusta yellow-stalk, clumping form bamboo for $125. I am, like, totally thrilled. Should have been about $500, but was marked down cuz the pot was broken...and I didn't want the pot anyhow! Sample pix, not mine | |||||
| Wow thank you for all of your... | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Monika | General discussion | |
| Wow thank you for all of your... Wow thank you for all of your thoughts, I apologise for the delay in replying..as you can see it is extremely difficult to rule certain elements out! I have been told the wood is teak as well. Blackwood is known to be very heavy and these chairs are not heavy at all. I wonder if the vinyl seat is a giveaway? I would have thought that with such beautiful crafmanship, the deigner would use leather over vinyl? It was a new material back then though! The circle sticker mark on the chairs is 35mm in diameter. Does anyone know if t ... | |||||
| Craft Assoc, | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Pegboard Modern | General discussion | |
| Craft Assoc, Craft Assoc made the Paul Evans style pieces. Once you've seen enough real Eavans pieces and the knock-offs, it's not hard to tell the difference but the bar is very easy. A real Paul Evans disk bar is 6 feet in diameter while a knock off is 4 feet across. Also, Paul Evans did do a lot of pieces entirely of metal, but also used the bronze resin on the surface of some pieces like the stalagmite table and disk bar. | |||||
| My ongoing Red Blue Chair construction | 1 Relevance | 16 years ago | Ernst | General discussion | |
| ... this chair a try. While researching the chair, I found that one is currently located at the High Art Museum in Atlanta. Some things that I noticed was that the main structure of this one is actually stained a dark color, and not black. I'm currently trying to match the color stain used, since the black doesn't do it for me. Also, the chair seems to have water damage, with the appearance of what looks like mold growth. The dowel joints are coming apart (the chair is 90 years old after all). It is my opinion that the 16mm diameter dowels used in this cha ... | |||||
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