Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Need one Lightolier globe | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Need one Lightolier globe Hi: I need one (possibly two) clear smoky Lightolier globes, 16 inches in diameter with a 2 1/4 fitter. Please contact me at prairiehal at yahoo.com if anyone has a lead. Thanks! | |||||
| If that works out, | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| If that works out, the procedure might be for Cody to remove the battens, see if the T-nuts are OK (hard to imagine how they might fail), measure them for diameter(s), and transmit that info so that tktoo can mill for them. A photo of the back of the batten would be helpful, presumably. I see that one batten isn't even fastened perfectly straight. I wonder what would have caused them to be replaced -- if that's what happened. The legs and the slat bed seem perfectly professional . . . | |||||
| Good tips! | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Good tips! Thanks. Eventually I will get up the courage to do my rocker again. It is even tougher because it has the bigger diameter cord. Blergh. | |||||
| Sometime in the | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... Each piece had a handle composed of a perfect and long cylinder, mated to a smaller cylinder which in turn grew into the necessary utensil form -- spoon, fork, knife, etc. The handle might have been 5/16" or 3/8" in diameter, and at least six inches long (as I recall it). Not only were the pieces elegant to behold, but they were weighted in such a way as to enhance the sensation of surgical precision and control -- at least in the store setting. I can't say what the dining experience would have revealed. . . Sadly, I have no idea who made these pieces. ... | |||||
| Thanks for | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| Thanks for the great photos. Perhaps you could share with others the technique or equipment you used for these extreme close-ups. I don't know how the pros do this -- but as a seasoned woodworker I would want to make a router template with a hole of the same diameter (or just slightly less) as the cut in the chair back. It would take a bit of fussing to get the template clamped securely to the chair part, at the appropriate angle. Then, using a top-bearing flush router cutter, I would create a new "land" in the plywood. This is because the new shock-mount ... | |||||
| Where does this leg | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... from the start, and destined to fail sooner or later once the connection was damaged or weakened in some way -- through abuse during moving, etc. After all, there's no more "weight" on one leg than on the other three -- right ? Rather than laboriously reconstructing the same joinery -- a somewhat dubious economy at the factory where this piece was made -- how about taking a simple-and-sure route, and refasten the leg from inside of the case -- assuming this doesn't present other issues. tktoo is (as usual) right on; the malformed mating surfaces at the ... | |||||
| What your intended final finish? | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| What your intended final finish? It would help to know what's on there now so you don't end up with compatibility issues. I wouldn't try to strip the entire bench or attempt disassembly of the slatted top, but simply scuff-sand the accessible surfaces, clean up w/ mineral spirits, and use either a spray or wipe-on finish. If the joint between the legs and the cross-battens are loose, it's probably because the holes that receive the metal dowel screws are stripped out. If so, the easiest good fix might be to remove the existing screws, re-bore the pilot holes ... | |||||
| I've made them from some reddish-brown | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| I've made them from some reddish-brown shoe-heel leather and glued them on with white glue. A bit of sandpaper to the bottoms once in a while cleans off accumulated grit and restores the sueded texture. I sharpened the end of a short piece of metal electrical conduit of the right diameter to cut multiples for a set of chairs. They've all stayed on for eight or nine tears now. Ask your local cobbler for scraps. Edit: Eight or nine tears? I'm not even a Tebow fan! | |||||
| It's real. | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| It's real. Eames Table model ET-108: 28.5" high, 36" diameter, Contract base, laminate top, manufactured sometime between 1964 and 1999. Still in production. See page 24: http://www.hermanmiller.com/MarketFacingTech/hmc/pricing/PB_ETA.pdf | |||||
| Spanky, you said in an... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | jesgord | General discussion | |
| ... towards the back a bit and reduced the size of the small gap. No mater how tightly, I packed the cord, though, there is no way I could have fit two more strands...on the frame. I wonder if maybe it has something to do with the diameter of the cord I'm, using....or even the placement of the nails? Funny thing is, I'm sure I'm the only person who will ever notice. | |||||
| I have bought them at common... | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | donsof | General discussion | |
| I have bought them at common... I have bought them at common hardware stores before. Its a common zinc washer at Menards, Home Depot, etc... Want exact sizes? How about this: 25.4MM = 1.0 inch Outer diameter, 10.9mm = .43 inner dia. with a thickness of 1.8mm = .07 wide. My speciman came off a second gen Zenith. Its also unplated with a black oxide coating. | |||||
| It's possible | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | fastfwd | General discussion | |
| It's possible that Gargamel10's lamp has an old Mogul socket (39mm diameter vs the common 26-27mm). If so, adapters may be purchased that will allow modern bulbs to fit. If that isn't the problem, and Gargamel10 simply wants an antique-looking bulb to match his antique-looking lamp, Ebay is a good place to find either vintage bulbs or replicas of vintage bulbs. | |||||
| Teapot | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | NULL NULL | General discussion | |
| Teapot Since these are Asian teapots, I presume they are meant to be steeped on the table rather than heated on a stove, in which case the lid blowing off is not an issue. I like the design of the "water" but think it would look much nicer in plain white. The cups look cool but I also wonder about the functionality. Looks difficult to hold and the fact that the opening is smaller than the diameter of the cup seems like it would be difficult to drink from. | |||||
| jesgord | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| ... WTH! Anyway, make a big coil of cord like 12" diameter, and then just bring the two sides in and tie loosely in the center. Kinda the way you might bundle up a long electric cord for a lamp. This way you can pull out the end as you go. If you make a coil and work off that, you can't tie it to keep it neat. Or rather, you can tie it to keep it neat but you will have to untie and retie it every time you need more cord, which is very often. I would just try to keep it neat without tying it, which never, ever worked. Not for long, anyway. There are too many nar ... | |||||
| Your photo | 1 Relevance | 15 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... suspect that the threads are a very common 1/4-20 -- that is, 1/4" diameter, 20 threads to the inch. Levelers, often of zinc-plated steel with white nylon foot, are still readily available -- in the US, at least. You could darken these, as necessary, and place them at the rear of your piece, with the originals at the front. It is necessary to level case goods that have doors, so that the doors will appear and function as intended. However, only two levelers (on one side of a four-legged piece) are needed to accomplish this leveling. Thus, the front two ... | |||||
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