Search result for: di frutta
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| more mystery tables | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | kate kaplan | General discussion | |
| more mystery tables mystery to me, because the only record I have is the photos (except that the glass and metal one appears in the Furniture Forum thing I posted earlier) - no advertising or anything that would indicate that they were produced and sold. And they don't look like the rest of the Designed for Moderns stuff. I like them all, even though/because they're strange. oh, the round table I posted earlier is 20 inches in diameter, 22.5 high - says so on the back of the photo | |||||
| Well, I can only see the one | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| Well, I can only see the one of the underside but it does indeed look like it could be original! How odd. It has the same diameter, degree of twist, and color as paper cord. It seems very unlikely that someone redoing the chairs could have found a material this close a match in appearance to paper cord. did Møller offer this material for a short while, maybe? I have no idea! | |||||
| Gary, your explanation makes... | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | cdsilva | General discussion | |
| Gary, your explanation makes... Gary, your explanation makes a lot more sense than my assumption. Sounds like a pretty good plan if the diameter is exact and the wood grain/color are a close match. Please post photos when finished. | |||||
| . | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | cubby01 | General discussion | |
| . Hmmm, is the color better or worse in this photo of the same vase? (link below) ITALIAN CERAMIC VASE WITH FISH Marked B34/608A, possibly Bitossi dimensions: H 8.5" x diameter 3.75" Condition: good, no chips, cracks, or repairs observed Provenance: From the descendants of a late 19th C. Siam logging operation And what the heck does "From the descendants of a late 19th C. Siam logging operation" mean and why would it give any credence to it being Bitossi? . http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/26158796_italian-ceramic-vase-with-fish | |||||
| @ jesgord | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Sarah Wilson | General discussion | |
| @ jesgord If the seat diameter of your chairs is 37.5cm then I think my stools have a chair seat rather than a stool seat. The 2 'stools' I have don't stack as the legs have been set too far in like on a chair. I've looked carefully on the underneath of one and I can see original pencil marks for 4 legs which ties in with your chairs. On the other there are some additional screw holes which look like they couldn't decide whether to make it a 4 leg chair or a 3 leg stool. I've taken the legs off one stool and it's obvious from the patina that all of these a ... | |||||
| It's not likely that many on | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| It's not likely that many on this forum will argue that your table is a good stylistic match for the chairs, so perhaps approaching the question from a functional perspective would be better. It is generally accepted that seating four at a round dining table requires a diameter of at least 32 inches with 36 or more for greater comfort. Seat height in relation to table surface is also important. Seat heights average around 17 1/2 inches and tables around 29 with higher for formal situations and lower for relaxed dining. Personal preference comes into play her ... | |||||
| SDR, to be honest, if I were | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| ... be ideal, but as long as some grooves are present to help disperse glue, it shouldn't matter much. You just don't want them so tight as to impede assembly or starve the joint of glue. Accurately shaping a shallow concave surface like that in thick stock can be tricky. Depending on the curve, the typical strategy would be to bandsaw it rough and and then smooth to final contour on a large-diameter spindle sander. Hand tool alternative would be a drawknife and/or spokeshave (skills required, but no fossil fuels, loud noise, or dust). | |||||
| No -- wood that thick must be | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... to create a convex surface for sanding the concave parts of some table legs. Worked a treat, as they say . . . My comment on tktoo's exhaustive instruction would be to ask if the method for compressng the diameter of the pins wouldn't permanently reduce them, by scraping off some material. I guess a thick piece of steel with a tapered (conical) hole would do the trick ? Another means is to pound them with a hammer on the concrete floor -- some fools I worked with showed me you can do this with biscuits that are too thick. It works ! (Conversely, my curre ... | |||||
| A couple of thoughts: | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| ... area, and the stronger the joint. But... the more critical and tricky alignment becomes. I think two per joint here should be adequate. Pin diameter half the thickness of the frame members spaced approximately half the width of the joint apart is close to ideal. For instance, if the joint is 1" thick by 3" wide, 1/2" diameter pins spaced 1 1/2" apart on center should be good. The more critical joints on your frame are on the ends. Go at least an inch deep (min. 2'' pins) on those. The stretchers are less critical, but if you're already set up to drill 1 1/8 ... | |||||
| The tongs look very similar to | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Spanky | General discussion | |
| The tongs look very similar to mine but mine have less of a change in diameter from the center to the end (I can't think of a clearer way to say that, though I'm sure there is one). Mine are 14.5" long and are marked with a penguin. I got them at an auction, and yes, they do need oiling! | |||||
| I'm in need of George Nelson chronopak wall receptacle | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | jlf1925 | General discussion | |
| I'm in need of George Nelson chronopak wall receptacle I have a George Nelson 30.25" diameter sunburst/starburst (the one with the multicolored spikes) model 2230. I'ts a direct wall plug-in and I am in need of a electric chronopak for this clock. Does anyone have one they're willing to sell or know where I could buy one from? This was my grandparents clock and it would mean the world to me to get this clock hung up in my home. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!! | |||||
| I would agree with that. I | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | SDR | General discussion | |
| ... of course. As to dowel length, the difference in effective glue surface between grain-direction dowels and cross-grain ones leads me to suggest that the cross-grain holes be drilled 50 to 100 percent deeper than the in-line ones -- but that's just me being . . . me. If you wanted to introduce novelty to this unseen (?) frame, you could substitute half-lap or even bridle joinery at the corners of your frame -- if the technology better matched your resources. Best wishes with your project ! | |||||
| I've just found this | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | Piotr Re | General discussion | |
| I've just found this discussion. I am the owner of these chairs. Armchairs were bought in Germany. Now they are in Poland. There is no embossed logo, even triangle dots.H-base is lower than usual - approx.: 14" - is it normal H base is so low?Shockmounts diameter is 1,75" Do you have any idea who made that armchairs? Tried to find it in the internet but without any results. | |||||
| SDR, hide glue properties as | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tktoo | General discussion | |
| ... as PVA. When I mentioned that the liquid variety of hide glue is comparably more flexible, I meant as compared to other varieties of hide glue, not PVA. And yes, I have tried to loosen joints glued with yellow PVA by steaming and soaking with warm water. Though usually successful, I find the effort tedious and unsatisfying at best. Then, after sanding, shaving, or paring away the residue (because, contrary to popular belief, PVA will not bond to cured PVA), one still has to refit the joint by shimming with veneers or using larger diameter dowels and redrill ... | |||||
| I used Frank's papercord for | 1 Relevance | 12 years ago | tchp | General discussion | |
| I used Frank's papercord for the first six chairs I wove several years ago. As you said, it has always been thinner diameter than the vintage stuff you see on Moller chairs, and the papercord I have bought from any other supplier has always been pretty much the same thicker diameter as the vintage Danish papercord. Frank's is the only place I have got cord from where it was noticeably thinner. The thicker cord does cost quite a bit more though. I think you can pay $30-$35 a chair doing a seat with papercord from places besides Frank's, who I believe was ar ... | |||||
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